Atlasville, 3 January 2009
We thought yesterday’s encounter with the lionesses would be the highlight of our Botswana trip, but little did we know that today would get off to an even better start – and end. Breakfast was even earlier today and we left the camp at 06:00.
Only 7 minutes later we encountered a pack of 7 African Wild Dog which had managed to separate a Blue Wildebeest from its herd and were circling with the obvious intention of making it their next meal. The wildebeest managed to keep the dogs at bay by bucking and spinning around, rear legs kicking out. The dogs were very cautious as a kick on the head could prove a lethal blow. Seeing that the dogs were reluctant to go in for the kill the wildebeest turned the tables by charging at the dogs head with down horns leading, eventually scattering them. The wild dogs regrouped and headed off to look for easier prey, perhaps an impala. The whole encounter had lasted a little more than 10 minutes.
It was at this stage that the other Lebala vehicle arrived – it had gone the opposite direction to us on leaving camp – after being summoned over the radio. They had unfortunately missed the main action, but it was now ‘fasten seat belts’ time again and both vehicles followed the hunting pack. We were hoping for a kill and although we stayed close to them all we got was photo opportunities of them taking a rest, having a bath, taking a drink, using a termite mound as a good lookout or just generally walking purposefully on. At 08:28 a little under 2½ hours after first encountering the wild dog pack we had to break off as the dogs headed into more dense vegetation where we were unable to follow. But what a 2½ hours!
By sheer coincidence we just happened to be next to the pan with the hippo carcass first seen on the afternoon of Day 1. So what does 2½ days of scavenging do to a largely untouched carcass? Nothing left except a ribcage, skull and the large leg bones. So it is left to the bone-crushing jaws of the hyena to reduce it further. Birdwatching had largely been forgotten up till now, but around the edges of the pan I got good shots of Little Egret, Wood Sandpiper and Blacksmith Lapwing.
Anything else now would be an anticlimax after the events so far, and we were back in camp by 09:15, where I finally managed to get shot of a male Southern Brown-throated Weaver. Another interesting sighting was this caterpillar, I believe that of a Death’s-head Hawk-moth.
The late afternoon drive took us along the edge of the wetlands in the area we had lost the wild dog hunting pack in the morning and I was able to get back to my bird photography with decent shots of Glossy Ibis, Squacco Heron, Black Heron, African Openbill, Saddle-billed Stork, Western Cattle Egret, Hamerkop, African Jacana, Cape Wagtail, Long-toed Lapwing, African Wattled Lapwing, Pied Kingfisher and African Pygmy Goose. Also photographed was this magnificently horned duo of male Red Lechwe.
Moving away from the water I picked up Rufous-naped Lark, Burchell’s Sandgrouse and Red-billed Spurfowl, before heading towards a mixed flock of small and medium size raptors that seemed to be feeding aerially. It turned out to be an irruption of termite alates that was attracting Red-footed Falcon, African Hobby and Yellow-billed Kite. While lying back in my seat photographing the falcons in flight I heard our spotter getting very excited and there they were 9½ hours on, our pack of wild dogs (x3) some 200 m away finishing off their meal. They sat around still eating, guarding some morsel or licking clean their blood-stained muzzles. Seems they had taken down something quite small judging by the size of the few bones in evidence, perhaps a warthog or young impala. A perfect start and end to our 4th day at Lebala, although we did experience another magnificent sunset on our way back to the lodge.
Although it’s New Year’s Eve there will be no waiting up till midnight to see in the New Year as it will be yet another very early start in the morning.
