Atlasville, 16 Oct 2006
After spending the nights of 6-7 October in Mapungubwe, my wife and I headed for the Kruger National Park via the most direct route, to Musina and on to the Pafuri Gate, the northernmost entrance into Kruger National Park. We needed to enter the park and make our way south to Mopani for our first overnight stop, a distance of 180 km and with a few stops and detours from the main tar road could well be a 7 hour drive.
We drove non-stop to Pafuri Gate arriving about 09:30. During the drive from Mapungubwe we were only able to record the more obvious larger birds such as Dark Chanting Goshawk, Pied Crow, Helmeted Guineafowl and Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, as well as some of the easily distinguishable smaller birds like Southern White-crowned Shrike, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Lilac-breasted Roller and Purple Roller.
Once in the Park one of the first birds seen was probably my closest ever sighting of Broad-billed Roller. Before we arrived at Pafuri Picnic Spot we had added Retz’s Helmetshrike, Golden-breasted Bunting, Golden-tailed Woodpecker and Grey Go-away-bird among others. At the picnic spot we added Yellow-bellied Greenbul and White-fronted Bee-eater, the latter flying in and out of their nest holes in the bank of the Luvuvhu River close to the river viewpoint. Star of the show here, though, was not a bird but this juvenile Vervet Monkey staring at us from its perch in a riverside Fever Tree.
Having followed the Luvuvhu River to Crooks Corner, we then continued southwards down the main tar road, stopping only at Babalala Picnic Spot, to Shingwedzi Camp, which we entered via the gravel road that takes you over the Shingwedzi River Causeway and into the back gate of the camp. On the causeway we came across this rather handsome Little Heron in full breeding plumage. Two birds that you can always see at Shingwedzi are African Palm Swift circling overhead and Lesser Masked Weaver whose hanging nests adorn the trees along the path outside the cafeteria.
Just short of our destination, Mopani Rest Camp, first we had a Red-crested Korhaan cross the road just ahead of us, then three large raptor sightings within a few kilometres, Brown Snake Eagle, Wahlberg’s Eagle and a pair of African Hawk-Eagle. The latter sat rather nervously on a large branch of a dead tree before taking to flight allowing me time to get shots of them perched and then in flight.
Arriving at Mopani we added White-browed Scrub Robin and Southern Black Tit between Reception and our chalet. Once unpacked we still had time for a short drive so headed to the Pioneer Dam Hide on the opposite side of the dam to the camp, adding Water Thick-knee, Three-banded Plover, Black Crake and Crested Barbet. Returning to camp a rather impressive Greater Kudu bull posed in the light of the setting sun.
The following morning I took a pre-breakfast walk around the in-camp walking trail, which is partly along the edge of the Pioneer Dam just inside the camp fence. Between the trail and the immediate area around our chalet I ticked off 35 species before breakfast, which provided good photo opportunities of Black-backed Puffback, Chinspot Batis, Marico Sunbird, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, a Natal Spurfowl with a brood of chicks, White-browed Scrub Robin, Long-billed Crombec, Cape Starling, Dark-capped Bulbul (now regarded as a sub-species of Common Bulbul) , Southern Red-billed Hornbill, Kurrichane Thrush, Crested Barbet, Lesser Masked Weaver and Arrow-marked Babbler. A very tame Smith’s Bush Squirrel (aka Tree Squirrel) darted in and out under our breakfast table on the stoep of the chalet.
This would be another long day from the driving perspective as we had to work our way down the Park, exiting at Paul Kruger Gate and heading to the Sanbonani Resort in Hazyview, our base for exploring the southern part of the Park.
Leaving Mopani we encountered this pair of Saddle-billed Stork at a small pond at the T-junction where the camp access road joins the main tar road. Joining the main road it was an uninterrupted run down to Letaba Camp, where we always stop even if only to stand outside the cafeteria and take in the magnificent views along the Letaba River, where today an African Fish Eagle was cruising up and down. Right next to the cafeteria a very tame Steenbok was browsing, with Bushbuck down towards the river. From the cafeteria I was also able to photograph a Saddle-billed Stork flying past, Bronze Mannikin, Red-eyed Dove and one of the resident Red-headed Weavers nest-building.
Back on the main road we continued south and just before crossing the Olifants River stopped at the N’wamanzi Viewpoint, where a small group of Vervet Monkey were checking all the parked vehicles for easy access via open doors and windows to steal food. The view across the river here drove home just how dry the Park is before the summer rains start.
Crossing the Olifants we turned off onto the gravel road that goes to Timbavati Picnic Spot where we had both an African Harrier-Hawk and a Swainson’s Spurfowl with a juvenile pose beautifully. At the picnic site Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill sat around in the trees awaiting scavenging opportunities. Next up was Satara Camp, where I photographed Marico Sunbird and Mourning Collared Dove while filling up with petrol.
The rest of the drive via Tshokwane and Skukuza to Phabeni was rather uneventful and we settled in to the first of our 4 nights at Sanbonani planning our routes in the southern part of the Park over the next 3 days.
Like Ngwenya Lodge, a major advantage of staying at Sanbonani is that once out of the resort grounds it is a 13-minute drive to the nearest entrance of Kruger Park, in this case Phabeni Gate. So on the Tuesday morning we were up early and were in the queue at Phabeni at 05:30 when the Park gates opened. We took the first turn left after leaving Phabeni, the S3, a gravel road that eventually becomes a riverside drive along the Sabie River to Paul Kruger Gate. This riverside section has always been very reliable for African Green Pigeon and Purple-crested Turaco and today was no exception. We also added Yellow-fronted Canary, Golden-breasted Bunting, Black-headed Oriole, Orange-breasted Bushshrike, Violet-backed Starling, Black Cuckooshrike and Klaas’s Cuckoo. These with others took our day’s tally to 49 species by the time we arrive at Paul Kruger Gate. Taking the main H11 road towards Skukuza we turned off to the Lake Panic Hide. I never drive past here, it has become a compulsion, almost a reflex action, to visit the viewing hide that for me has not got an equal anywhere else in South Africa.
Just as we arrived at the hide it started raining. The Park surely needs some rain to turn everything green again, so no complaints. Today’s larger residents at the dam were Grey Heron, Little Heron, Goliath Heron, African Darter and Great Egret. Others present were Water Thick-knee, White-faced Whistling Duck, Pied Kingfisher, Common Sandpiper, Southern Black Tit, Bearded Woodpecker, Cardinal Woodpecker, White-crested Helmetshrike and Village Weaver. African Jacana are ever-present here and always show why they are often referred to as ‘lily trotters’, as they walk unperturbed from lily pad to lily pad.
The rain proved to be no more than a short shower and back on the main tar road we bypassed Skukuza, heading along the Sabie River Road towards Lower Sabie, crossing the Sabie on the only bridge crossing of the Sabie River about halfway to Lower Sabie, then continuing towards Lower Sabie on the gravel Salitjepad collecting Southern Ground Hornbill, African Woolly-necked Stork, Red-breasted Swallow, Brubru and Black-bellied Bustard on the way. Shortly after turning north towards Tshokwane on the S128 we came across a Common Ostrich female with several juveniles. At the T-junction with main H10 tar road we doubled back southwards towards Lower Sabie. Luck is a big factor in what you see in the Park, often revolving around ‘well, if he hadn’t taken this road… ‘. This time we had chosen correctly and 2 minutes down the road had a great sighting of an old male lion and a lioness. Here again my photo shows just how depressingly parched the Park is at this time of year.
Crossing the Sabie River again via the Lower Sabie Weir we added Giant Kingfisher, almost guaranteed here, then at Sunset Dam some Common Hippopotamus showed why they should be treated cautiously. Hippos are responsible for hundreds of human deaths each year in Africa, more than any other mammal. From the viewing deck at Lower Sabie Camp we saw White-fronted Bee-eater, Yellow-billed Stork, Little Egret and surprisingly African Black Duck, these are usually seen in the fast-flowing waters below the weir.
Just out of Lower Sabie heading back towards Skukuza we encountered an immature Martial Eagle sitting in a tree. It did not take flight and afforded me a good photo opportunity.
Later on the Doispane Road and close to Phabeni on our way out of the Park these Spotted Hyena pups played together totally unfazed by our presence.
On the Wednesday morning we were again in the queue at Phabeni at gate opening time. Today, though, we would stay south of the Sabie River, turning right towards Mestel Dam and Pretoriuskop Camp just inside Phabeni Gate. We already had the day off to a good start with species such as African Wattled Lapwing, Arrow-marked Babbler, Green Wood Hoopoe, Marico Sunbird, Kurrichane Thrush and Greater Blue-eared Starling before arriving at the Mestel Dam. Here I had my best photo opportunity of the day with only my 3rd ever sighting of African Cuckoo-Hawk. Yellow-throated Longclaw, Groundscraper Thrush, Gabar Goshawk and Black-winged Kite were added before arriving at Pretoriuskop Camp where Brown-headed Parrot were once again present. This is a very reliable spot for them.
From Pretoriuskop we headed south-east towards Afsaal Picnic Spot adding Magpie Shrike, Lilac-breasted Roller, African Firefinch, Blue Waxbill, Red-faced Mousebird and Chinspot Batis along the way. After Afsaal we headed for the Biyamiti Loop then the Mpondo Dam and on to Lower Sabie. On the Biyamiti Loop a small herd of giraffe was being subjected to the very close attention of Red-billed Oxpecker.
At Lower Sabie Weir today no Giant Kingfisher but we added Wire-tailed Swallow and Reed Cormorant. At Sunset Dam a Sombre Greenbul was sitting atop a bush making its doleful call, while around the edge of the dam were Wood Sandpiper, Three-banded Plover, African Spoonbill and Yellow-billed Stork.
From Lower Sabie it was straight to Skukuza and via Paul Kruger Gate and the Sabie River Loop back to Phabeni, but not before we called in at – you’ve guessed – Lake Panic Hide. Not too much action today. Only additions to yesterday’s haul here were a nest-building Village Weaver, Black-backed Puffback and Black-crowned Night Heron. Last photo of the day just short of Phabeni was a Wahlberg’s Eagle.
On Thursday, our final full day of the trip, we repeated Tuesday’s route as far as Skukuza, this time going into the camp itself. Lake Panic, and not often I say this, was a big disappointment this morning. Rattling Cisticola, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove and Brown-hooded Kingfisher had been added to our list along the way.
We crossed the Sabie River this time at the third of the three available crossings, the low-water causeway just outside Skukuza, and headed towards Tshokwane, turning north onto the gravel Nhlangulene Road to Satara. Near the Nhangulene Picnic Spot we came across this skulking Spotted Hyena. A little further on at the Muzandzeni Picnic Spot we added Burchell’s Coucal. We took lunch at Satara where, as always, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Red-billed Buffalo Weaver, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Lesser Masked Weaver and Mourning Collared Dove were present at the outside tables of the cafeteria looking for scraps that might fall to the ground.
After lunch as it got hotter there was not much bird activity so we headed for the Sweni Bird Hide near Nwanetsi where at least there would be some water. Not too much as it happened, a depressingly low water level that still supported a few crocodile, but no hippo to be seen. At least there were a few of the larger birds one would expect to find here – White-faced Whistling Duck, African Openbill, African Woolly-necked Stork, Grey Heron and Yellow-billed Stork.
Then it was back to Skukuza via Tshokwane and the Sabie River Bridge, where we encountered Marabou Stork. On the Doispane Road towards Phabeni we had the late addition of one of those birds that I have seen only a few times and all in the Kruger Park – Senegal Lapwing.
It was one of those weeks when there were long periods of not too much to see, but with a combined Mapungubwe and Kruger tally of 204 birds and a few good game sightings enough to bring you back again.
